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One was delighted to discover that the south Indian seasoning podi – a rough grind of intensely spicy, crudely milled spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

Gather six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if made of wood, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves a couple

14 ounces waxy potatoes, chopped into four-centimeter chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, cut into two-centimeter cubes
One teaspoon coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
One and a half teaspoon flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two garlic pieces, skinned and shredded
2½cm piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
Forty milliliters flavorless oil
1 red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, minced
½ tsp flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then drain them and allow to air dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for 5 minutes, then drain and pat dry.

Pour the spice seeds into a mortar or spice grinder, add the seasonings, then mash or process to a rough rubble.

Tip into a medium-large bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then lightly combine with the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Thread the vegetables and cheese on to barbecue sticks, then move to a sheet pan and reserve for later – optionally, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Beat all the ingredients for the dressing in a medium bowl. Preheat the broiler to its highest setting, then bake the sticks for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the heat of your broiler, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, scattered with a little more sea salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.